Left Foot Gear change

I have noted that a few members have converted their machines to left foot gear change.

as per: danofield550 's quote of : converted the engine to left hand gear change as i don't think i'll be able to change a habit of a life time.

I am exactly in the same situation...

Is it possible that someone could put together a ''how to guide'' into changing to left foot.


Pete

Hi Pete it is quite easy to convert to left hand side or duel side gear change. My method is to get a spare selector shaft cut the splines section to a length to position the LH gear leaver where you want it. Put in lathe and drill both old shaft & non splined end of part shaft 40mm deep 5.5mm open the first 20mm in each end to 6.5mm then ream full depth 6mm. Get a length of 6mm steel cut to 75mm and file a small flat along the whole length (to let out trapped air) put them together and braze. It is important that they run true when cold, if you have to tap them strghit beware of cracking the braze. When fitting in the cases the holes are not always in line and origonal shaft hole may need easing. I mill a keyway in both shaft parts then insert a small piece of key steel before brazing then turn off flush. I also make a shim to keep the selector fork in the right place (make this a good fit as it will hold key in place if braze cracks) as well as adding an O ring to the LH side. In ten years I have only had one shaft break when using this method (that’s what you get when you lend your bike to big foot). It is a good idea to keep the LH shaft as short as possible to reduce the strain on the braze. This will mean cutting the back off the clutch mech. Casting. Hope this all makes senseas was done on the quick

Hello Pete,

I'll take a few photos when its apart,
my way sounds a little less work than teds, the part that moves the gear selector(shaft) is on a spline I knocked that off and turned it around , it won't fit straight away as there's a wire type clip that holds it in place, so I turned a counter bore on the other side of the selector and a new locating groove in the shaft, the selector then pushes back on , to keep it in the right place it'll need a spacer that rubs against the left hand crankcase I also turned an o ring groove in the shaft to desk it in the case,
The cases already have the hole in the left side by the way it has a steel plug in , I pushed this out and put it in the right side case, it needed trimming in height the make the selector shaft just rub lightly, it all probably sounds complex, but picture will help, have you got machining facilities?

It took me maybe an hour or so to do at work, [url][/url]

here you can see the selector having the shaft in from the left side, below it on the shaft is the spacer and if you look close enough you'll make out an o ring on the shaft



and here is the other crank case with the bung turned down so that once the case's are back together the bung just misses the end of the shaft by a few thou, getting the selector in the right place is the important part, you'll need to take measurements before you start and make spacers etc to make it all line back up in the same place.

Hi Pete yes your way is a lot easier. But I like to have the shaft out both sides as so many different riders get to ride my bike, and some have a left or right preference for the change. My way also gives better support to the shaft as putting it out of the LHS means it is only running in a short length of crank case compared with standard. The method I use is basically a copy of the Andy Molden conversion with some small moods.

thank you very much for the information.
Certainly gives me something to work on and think about.
House sale / move is taking priority at the moment !.......
Pete