a new member and new builder plus progress so far

just though i'd say hello,

and a big thanks to ted smith who i met with another fellow at brands hatch , had a very interesting chat about all things bantam , really enthused with his obvious enthusiasm for bsa bikes , so much so i've had a hard time thinking of anything else.

would love to have a crack at the racing and, bank balance willing will be able to make a few goes of it.

got a d7 frame and sand cast engine, set of forks and front hub and brake, need a lot more but thanks to this great site its a much simplified task

hoping to enter the 175 class as it seems a lot less learning and nearer the original bike.

just wondering what capacity should the fuel tank be ? what are most people using, one from ragged edge racing?
and rim size for front and rear ?

thanks dan

Hi,

Most people are using Fuel tanks from Jimmy Gelcoat (retired) but if you PM Alan Brown on the site he may be able to help. I have never put more than 4 litres in and that was on a test day.

People are running 17 and 18 inch rims but 18 front and back , WM1Front and WM2 Rear , are probably most common.

If you put your location on there may be someone nearby who could take you through the various bits and pieces

James

thanks for that , im in gravesend and work in swanley as a toolmaker , i rather fancy making my own tank from ali , been looking at a rc110 style , it looks simple enough .

what selection of chains and sprocket is common too?

Again two camps those running 415 and those running 420.

I run 420 as its cheaper and you can get it just about anywhere, sprockets definitely 14 & 15 tooth front and I would suggest 50, 52,54,55, 56 rears

Lots more available but that would cover most circuits on my 175

James

Hi looks like me and Michael are your local riders as we live in swanscombe I work away a lot but sure can meet up some time and give you some pointers

sound like a cunning plan mate, i've a lot to learn,

while i'm asking endless question ...............

what length of rear shocks are most using, and any recommendations ? i saw a lot of bantams with hagon units on , these seem expensive , so didnt want to get the wrong size etc

Hello Mate

I'm not far either in North London have ray's bike in my garage and a sprint/race 125 bike project that my 2 young kids are getting the way of building and racing. I have some hagon shocks that were on the green bike in 'the build a 175 page' I can measure them next time i go round the garage. If you order some tell hagon your weight and what you're using them for and they'll spring them acordingly. Looks like james as answered your sprocket Qs I used 420 chain on mine you can also get away with 415 sprockets but not the other way round obviuosly.

Fancy an Ally tank for mine

good luck

Tony

Hi I know it’s a fair distance to come but a few of us meet at the Thatcher’s Arms pub every other Wednesday for a drink and chat. It is not worth getting there before 10.00PM, This week is a meet week 26thOct. Then the 9th Nov.

It may be more help if I said the Thatche’s Arms Great Warley near Brentwood Essex.

My Hagon shocks are 310mm BTC if that helps others might have different measurements depends on subframe and angle of shock> best mock up chasis and use some tube/box section drilled at 290/300/310/320mm and try it for ride height.

hope this helps

Tony

HI Dan I have pm you I am around over the weekend so could pop over one night if you want
Robbie

thanks for the offer robbie,although i can't see a pm, did it go to me? i appreciate the offer of help., unfortunately i have a very full weekend of evenings this weekend , plus i keep the bike at work as it easier to work on in tea breaks and spare time i get, so nothing to see at home, if your about in the week and wanna come and have a look/ chat /cuppa tea etc your more than welcome, always time tea and bike/motorsport talk at work!

and ted , now you've done it! i was gonna try all the thatchers arms till i got the right one! no excuse now!

i'll have a go at putting on some pictures of my collection of bits when i get to work monday

thanks for the hint and tips so far to all that have chipped in

made a start on fuel tank , need to weld in the tunnel to clear the top tube, rear set part done and converted the engine to left hand gear change as i don't think i'll be able to change a habit of a life time

Hi Dan

good to see you are making progress
Keep it up, the off season may be too long for the rider but its too short for the bike builder !

Mick

sorted a front wheel , and spaced out the rear hub


making rearsets and exhaust soon

your bikes looking good and well on the way. Have you made a through shaft so the gear change can be on the left?Dont forget despite living the wrong side of the water you are welcome at eastern cantre club nights. Tomorow and every 2nd week (23rd Nov). Keep uip the good work.

Hi Dan looking good, is that your rear hub on the floor?

If so its a D1,3,5 hub and therefore will be to suit a 40 hole rim (all long spokes).

D7,10,14 hubs are better as they have a shoulder for the sprocket to butt up aganist (so you can
cut them in half for quick sprocket changing.
D7-14 are 36 hole(18 long and 18 short spokes).

Regards Mike

Looks good dan keep up the good work

Hi Dan,


I agree looking good already.


Kind Regards



Eddie

Sorry Mike,
Not often I would disagree with you, but early Bantam hubs are 36 hole and later are 40 hole

it is an early hub with 36 holes, i've made a mod to the brake plate to allow the cable to be fitted and to move with the hub when the chain is adjusted , and i've got a modern bolt/axle and normal spacers and sealed bearings fitted too , plus a tie bar to keep the brake plate still , and i replaced the heavy steel plate that was riveted to it with an alloy one

Me-thinks you are going to have a few problems with that hub!
How are you going to attach the sprockets without the small bolts shearing off? I think you are at risk of an accident. Consider changing the hub to the later D7 for your own safety!
The Later hubs allow sprockets to be split so that they can be changed between races easily as well so it is an extra advantage.
Get to meet one of the guys racing and it will help with the explanation.
Cheers,
Alan

are the early hubs no good then?

i guess from what you say the later ones have a larger area for the sprocket to bolt to?

No one uses the early hubs for racing (too dodgy and difficult to use), and yes there is a better location area for the sprockets on the later D7 onwards type of hubs. They are generally fairly easy to obtain from ebay etc, make sure that the bolt threads on the new style go right though to the back of the hub (do a re-thread) and your sprocket screws (we use Allen head type 1/4 bsf thread) just show at the back of the hub with the sprocket fitted. This way you get maximum strength and there will be no breaking of the casting where the screws go through.
Regards,
Alan