a new member and new builder plus progress so far

thanks for that alan, i'll try and get a later hub, good job i didnt buy a rim for it!

cant see any on ebay though,

just wondered , are the early hubs no good because of the weak sprocket mounting? or is there other reasons too?

Hi the later hubs have a flange that centres the spocket, as well as being cast and a lot stronger

Yes John - got my number of spokes wrong way round.

Thanks for your correction...

Mike

Alan mentioning "...for your saftey ..." reminded of the Wobbly mishap at Woodlands, Cadwell... It was the FRONT hub in Colin Aldridge´s case.

Might be useful to mention that Colin skimmed the brake drum and -- in my opinion -- overtightened the spokes. Maybe I was at fault in boasting of rebuilding my own wheels that had him do his own. Before practice I´d tapped the spokes and said they seemed excessively tight... The drum just disintergrated at Barn corner & with Colin´s luck he ended up in a pile of hay.

Boring nostalgia --- Yaaaawwwwnnnn!

glad i was told , its good to be told , i , as a new comer need guidance for this sort of thing, maybe the rules could be re-worded to say bantam hub to used and 40 hole only,

i have a 17" morad rim on the front , and need a back rim, would a 2.5 rear be okay with a 2.15 or should i really have a 3 on the back?

Hi Danny,

On Page 2 I think Alan mentioned that we use 1/4" BSF cap head screws. I think this is incorrect, as I have always used 1/4" UNC - far cheaper and more readily available I would have thought.

All the best with the project

Pete

Pete is correct,
But what I did is run a 1/4 bsf tap down the threads, then if you accidently in future cross thread at some time, then you can run a 6mm metric down it and save the day!
Regards,
Alan

alan wrote:

Pete is correct,
But what I did is run a 1/4 bsf tap down the threads, then if you accidently in future cross thread at some time, then you can run a 6mm metric down it and save the day!
Regards,
Alan

was gonna say 1/4 bsf myself but the you've reminded me where the tapping out tip came from how you keeping Alan? see you sometime next season mate

Dano

BSA Bantam rear hub D7 on ebay ....

yeah spotted that already, i've also seen a hub that has spokes that are the same length on both sides , are these hubs any good for me? or is the odd sided type what i need?

Dan the D7 hub on ebay is what you want.. 40 spoke long and short.

You may of come across a D10/14 sports, full width hub .. 40 spoke all short.
Look nice but have the same small brake, and the hub just adds to your
unsprung weight.

Mike

finally got a correct hub, finished modifying the frame and found a seat, got the rear brake and gear change sorted although its not fitted in the pictures .

need some spokes now, never bought spokes before, anyone have the sizes i need to ask for ? its a 17" rim , are just galv spokes okay?

whats the general thinking on piston to cylinder clearance ? i'm using the iron barrel and suzuki 185 piston i've seen between 0.004" and 0.002" i have a wiseco piston by the way,

also , on the pictures of tom snows engine the transfer ports have a bridging part, is this necessary on an iron barrel, the width of mine doesn't look like it'll be needed. im guessing they are to keep the rings from snagging





thanks in advance . dan

Hi Dan

assuming you have a standard 64mm wiseco suzuki piston I would suggest you bore and hone the cylinder to 64.00mm

You will then have the clearances designed by the piston manufacturer.

As it is a forged piston it would not be a good idea to use a larger bore size as the cold clearances would be on the large side.

Hopefully when hot it will be round and a good fit but there's only one way to find out !

On your iron barrel you will not need to bridge the transfers as port widths can be around 66% of the bore diameter without needing a bridge providing they are well rounded.

Mick

thanks mick, all done now, just matching the posts in the crank case, then onto the head.

notice that most bantams are running silencers, whats the db limit i should be aiming for?

Hi
105 db is max buy try and aim for about 98 99 db that's what my bike is

thanks robbie, not sure about the buy bit! , too tight for that ! made one instead , found a lot of drawings and dimensions on the forum and worked out an average between them all ,and came across an exhaust from a gilera , a bit of cutting and sticking back together i wound up with this .......


not very good pictures , i took them on the phone

Nice job. Any possibility of photos from other side? Did you fab the expansion box or graft an existing one on to the header pipe?

heres some from the other side,

Neato! That exhaust pipe looks really good! Congratulation!!

i've been modifying the clutch basket, just giving it a trial fitting and i have movement in and out (end float) of the basket when the nut
is tightened up , this is with out the plates and springs etc, is this correct ?

i have the early type with bronze thrust bush by the way.
thanks dan

i've converted the centre bearing of the clutch to a roller bearing and made new thrust washers and
the play has all gone now, im guessing its not ment to have 0.005" play!

turning my attention to the springs now, it seems a lot put extra springs in(9) this seems an
easy mod but , would it not be easier to just up the
poundage of the 6 already there?

The bike looks real good you are making a lot of progress. I will give MY opinion on your quires, the clutch will seen lose when you have on plates & springs in. The conversion to ball race sounds like it could be OK but it is not clear whether you have made the top hat bush or the thrust washer into a ball. I use a needle roller for thrust and keep the bronze top hat. It is also worth remembering the clutch gets very very HOT!!!!!!!!!! Don’t let me comments slow you down and you are welcome at the pub.